:Fashion:Celebrity Fashion

This week Fashion Editor, Anya, was lucky enough to talk with handbag designer and judge in the Air New Zealand Design a Designer Bag competition, Roanne Jacobson about where she gets inspiration for her gorgeous bags.


We love the Saben range of bags. Can you share with us how you got involved in designing and making handbags?
After finishing a degree in fine arts, I headed to New York to make my name as an artist. When fame failed to materialise in the New York art world, I ended up bartending for a living and found myself in the unfortunate position of being broke in the Big Apple. Unable to indulge in my passion for buying bags, I did what any fine arts graduate would do, and made one out of ribbons, buttons and beads that I found in back street shops in the Manhattan clothing districts.

My first attempt was stitched by hand and was “a disaster”. I borrowed a sewing machine from an aunt in Pennsylvania and had another go, however I found that I still couldn’t sew very well at all. I thought “No, I need a machinist”, so I came home! I returned to New Zealand in 1999 with an idea for an accessories business and the name, which is actually my grandmother’s maiden name.

How did you turn that love of handbags into what Saben is today?
I started with one design in four colour ways which I sold into four stores and each season I added to the collection and the stockist list. Now, we produce over 30 styles in three to five colour ways each and have 40 stockists.

What has been the most exciting or inspiring moment in your career as a bag designer to date?
I have had countless moments in what is almost 10 years of business. Knowing you’ve created the ultimate “must have” bag for the season is always a thrill.

Your background is in art; do you think you need to be a fashion-forward fashionista to make it as a handbag designer?
You need to be an ‘interpreter’ more than a ‘fashionista’ – you have to be aware of the trends and what is happening in the fashion industry right now, and in the future, and to be able to adapt it to your market.

I love the fact that your bags are fashionable but also functional, what do you keep in mind when designing a handbag; for example when you know it will get a lot of wear?
You need to consider the quality of the materials used, the way the handle will attach to the bag – will it be strong enough? Fittings need to be of a high quality. Functionality can simply be the addition of pockets, an adjustable strap and the like.

If you could sum up what the perfect bag is in five words what would they be?
Antoinette: one in every colour… Actually maybe Polly: also one in every colour… Hmmm or maybe Daphne: one in every colour… It’s really hard to decide this season!

When it comes to designing your bags, how do you get started and what’s your design process?
It usually starts when I fall in love with a fitting, a detail, a shape, a colour, or a piece of material. Then I bring more of these elements together and sketch out ways for the piece to work. Sampling (taking a sketch through to a three-dimensional form) is when the ultimate decisions are made – sometimes the best idea doesn’t translate so well, sometimes magic happens.

I know that you will be helping the winner of Design a Designer Bag take their bag from design to production, what’s some of the exciting things involved in doing this?
If the winner is anything like me, then seeing their drawings and scribbles come to life in the factory, and then seeing them being worn by someone else for the first time will be the two absolute highlights.

You’ve worked with Air New Zealand in the past on their cabin luggage projects, what inspired the designs you created?
I took what could be seen as four traditional shapes and pushed the boundaries to create four very modern bags. My favourite is the ‘expander-bag’ – based on a modified bowling bag shape I added two zip-out segments, so it expands as your purchases pile up!

And as someone who has designed Air New Zealand Cabin Bags, what do you think the Design A Designer Bag entrants should be thinking about when creating their designs?
First and foremost – functionality and how the bag will be used. A cabin bag needs to fit in the overhead compartment or under your seat so the challenge is to use these requirements as a platform to express their design aesthetic.

Keep it simple, don’t put all of your great ideas in to the one design. Sketch out all your design ideas and then leave them for 48 hours, come back and choose the one you feel is the strongest. Put the others away for next time (because if you’re serious about becoming a designer then there will be plenty of ‘next times!’). I’ll be looking for a classic piece of luggage with a fresh point of view.

What are the big bag trends for spring and summer?
We’re seeing a lot of over-sized clutches, dual/superfluous handles, chain, colour, and a contemporary take on patchwork and craft elements.

Who would you consider to be your top five bag designers or labels other than yourself?
Marc Jacobs, Bottega Veneta, Prada, Loeffler Randall and Chloe.

I know you have spent some time abroad: what are your personal cabin bag essentials when travelling?
My bags are pretty much filled with my infant sons’ must-haves like nappies and bottles, but I must have a magazine with me for when they’re asleep!

Lastly, as a designer (and a bag fiend!) why do you think women love bags so much!
I think people don’t hold back as much with accessories as they might with clothing. They feel comfortable showcasing their personality and individuality through their accessories. It’s also a very easy way to update a look. My own personal belief is that if you are wearing a great bag and a great pair of shoes you will always feel prepared for anything.

For your chance to follow in Roanne’s footsteps enter Air New Zealand’s Design a Designer Bag competition. Whether you design the next Air New Zealand cabin bag or simply vote for your favourite, you could win great prizes, if you’re the winning designer one of your prizes will include your choice of a trip to one of the following destinations - Shanghai, Hong Kong, L.A. or San Francisco! Click here to find out more. For terms and conditions please see here. Full terms and conditions can be found at designabag.co.nz.

Last updated: Wednesday, November 19th, 2008